Spotify uses too much hard drive storage space. They cache most of your songs, and use upwards of 1gb of drive space. They do this only to reduce bandwidth to their servers. If you have an enormous hard drive, this isn’t as big of a deal (though I still don’t like when programs use more resources than they need to).

But if you have an ultrafast SSD (such as the 60gb one I have), then hard drive space is once again at a premium. The following simple steps will allow you to limit the space Spotify uses, freeing back up your disk space, while still allowing Spotify to work just fine.

STEP 1: Eliminate the current cache

Open windows explorer and navigate to:
C:\Users\[computer username]\AppData\Local\Spotify\Storage

… replacing [computer username] with the name you are logged into Windows with. Note: you may have to first set explorer to display hidden files to see all the files.

Delete all the folders / files in this directory.

STEP 2: Manually edit the settings file

Since Spotify’s preferences only allow you to set the minimum storage space at 1 gb (i.e. 1024 mb), you’ll have to manually edit the settings file to set it lower. I’d recommend no lower than 20 mb, in order that at least the current song you’re listening to and a couple more can be cached. I’m using a value of 50.

Once again in windows explorer, go to:
C:\Users\[computer username]\AppData\Roaming\Spotify

Open the file “settings” in Notepad. Find the phrase “cache_size”, and change the value following it to your desired size. Example:    “cache_size”:1024   ** changed to **   “cache_size”:50

Notes:

These instructions are for windows 7. Another OS should only differ in where these files are located.

As with anytime you are editing files, backup the original files first (e.g. copy and rename to “settings.old”).

I was recently updating a site that was using the s3Slider jQuery library, when I noticed it had stopped working, and I was constantly receiving the javascript error: s3slider is not a function

Upon doing a little research, I realized that this was a fairly common problem that quite a few people had run into, however, my solution was not the same as all the solutions that I found. One solution that I found online was to not use the minified version of s3slider. The minified version of s3slider apparently contains some errors, so using the default version will oftentimes solve whatever error you’re receiving. If this solution doesn’t work for you, you may have the same problem I was having. My problem stemmed from where s3slider was being loaded on the page. It was being loaded before the jQuery library was being loaded. By updating my HTML to load jQuery first, I was able to resolve the issue.

s3slider is not a function in my case was the error being caused by the jQuery library not being initialized first. Easy fix, by just moving the s3slider.js file above the jquery declaration.


I recently started encountering a problem with OS X Lion. I’m running a pretty sick Hackintosh setup that has always operated without problem. Then recently, out of nowhere, Google Chrome has suddenly started to cause my computer to crash. I get the gray screen prompting me to reboot my computer. Upon rebooting, if I open Google Chrome, my computer will crash again. If I leave Chrome closed and use Safari instead, everything runs fine. I know the simple solution is to stop using Google Chrome, but that’s not really a solution for me. I like Google Chrome. It is the 1 browser that is most similar between Mac and PC, so it is the browser that I choose to use on my work and personal computers.

Has anyone out there encountered a problem when running Google Chrome on Mac OS X Lion? If so, have you found a way around the crashing issue?

The odd thing in all of this is that the crashes do not even generate error/crash dump reports. So I guess I really don’t know that it is Chrome that is causing the crash, but I’ve been using my computer for 3 hours without incident. I’m writing this post in Safari. I’m fairly certain that opening Chrome will cause my computer to crash.

UPDATE
Yes, opening Chrome did, in fact, cause my computer to crash.


So I’m not sure why this is, but I had previously updated my iTunes libraries to “match” so that I could sync my iPhone to 3 of my computers – my laptop, my home office and my office computer. It worked fine, but with the release of iTunes 10, Apple has apparently nixed this and I haven’t wanted to test (waiting for some other poor sap to try), so I’ve just been plugging my phone into each computer seperately as always, there are some things that puzzle me though.

My home desktop computer is now new, doesn’t have a matching iTunes library ID #, however when I plug my iPhone in to it, I am still able to manage pictures, music, movies, etc. I can copy anything that I want to/from the phone. When I click the “Sync” button on the bottom right from the iPhone Summary page in iTunes, the phone runs through its normal syncing process. No problems at all. Same thing when I plug it into my laptop of office computer. Weird, right?

Update on Syncing to multiple computers

So I found out what is happening. You ARE able to sync/copy content form multiple computers (it seems), however you cannot change settings on your phone on a computer other than the main computer that your phone is synced to. When I try to change the setting “Manually manage music and videos” from unchecked to checked, I get the following message:

Does this make any sense? I don’t know why Apple doesn’t just remove their restrictions.


This is one of my favorite new features of iOS 5 (I’m easily amused). But all joking aside, this feature is very handy, especially when you leave your phone for a couple hours and it gets bombarded with texts, twitter updates, calendar notifications, etc. Regardless of what is on the lock screen, you can simply swipe the icon of the notification that you want to see and iOS 5 will take you directly into the proper app, and if necessary, the proper page. Try it out next time you get a notification!


I recently updgraded my Hackintosh due to a hard drive failure and decided I’d start using Apple software to manage and maintain all of my digital files (pictures/music/videos). My main reason for this was the ease of use, simplicity yet powerful features that iMovie offered. So naturally, iMovie was the first program that I began to use frequently. Next was iTunes. I had always stayed away from managing my music in iTunes, but now that I’ve owned every iPhone, I figure, I may as well convert and start using iTunes. Plus, with the addition of the Remote app, I have become a huge fan of iTunes and the ability to control the music played in my house from any room. Now, onto the last bit of personal media that I needed to maintain. Pictures.

I had always been a fan of just organizing my photos using good folder structure and naming a heirarchy (which I still adhere to), but I figure that takes a lot of time, and I don’t necessarily need full control. Apple develops software to take the work and worry out of tedious tasks like that, so I decided… I’m going to start managing my pictures in iPhoto. Whoops!

First of all, I didn’t setup my iPhoto database in the “traditional” sense. By default, iPhoto wants to copy all photos to the iPhoto database. I did not enable this option. I instead, left all of my pictures on my secondary hard drive (around 75,000 images) and let iPhoto run its scan. It took nearly 2 hours to complete on my absolute beast of a machine – more to come on that – but once it completed, there were problems. Upon trying to browse the pictures, nearly every picture i tried to enlarge, I was presented with a large gray triangle with an exclamation point in it. All the thumbnail images were displayed in iPhoto, but upon trying to view the large version of any thumbnail, iPhoto gave me the gray exclamation point.

I am currently in the process of rebuilding/repairing my iPhoto database as per some user suggestions in various forums, but it has been stuck at 99% for the last 30 minutes. I’m losing confidence and starting to consider switching to Aperture, or maybe back to Picasa3. Picasa has always done a good job and never had a problem with the amount of images that I’ve thrown at it. The fact that iPhoto creates and maintains an entire database seems a little stupid to me – especially considering the fact that I didn’t import any photos and the iPhoto database is currently at 6.4 gigabytes. Seems like too much. I’m going to let this thing run, but I’m curious to hear if anyone out there prefers Aperture over iPhoto, or if there is another strong photo management application.


I recently updated to iTunes 10.5 here at my office and for some reason, iTunes has decided that it ALWAYS needs to be open. iTunes now opens when I boot up my computer. Upon closing it, iTunes will re-open itself within 1-5 minutes. Seems to be very random. This will happen continuously. As many times I close it, it will always open again. So far, the only way I’ve found to stop this annoyance is just to leave iTunes open, which really isn’t an option for me. I don’t need iTunes consuming any memory while I’m trying to complete other tasks.

Has anyone else had the problem of iTunes opening automatically, continuously and repeatedly? It is really frustrating because each time it opens, it comes to the foreground.

I have so many apps, programs, websites, tools, etc etc that I use related to music (I listed them out below).

But I’m still missing a functionality I really want… and that is: a notification system when an artist I follow is about to release new material, or is about to perform in my area! If anyone knows of something reliable that provides this data, I’d love to hear about it.

Muspy is supposed to tell when artists release new material, but its unreliable. It misses a lot of data, or sends it late, and duplicates data (for other country releases).

Last.fm has listings on artist performances, but its incomplete and hard to get at the data. It relies on artists/users to upload the information regarding tour dates. Also, it doesn’t have a notifcation system for when artists you like are coming to your area. You’re left with hoping you visit the artist’s page at the right time.

Here’s the things I’ve used related to music:

  • Last.fm (web, desktop, mobile)
  • Pandora (web, mobile, desktop “OpenPandora”)
  • Grooveshark (web, desktop, mobile)
  • Spotify (desktop, mobile)
  • iPod (mobile)
  • iTunes (desktop)
  • Windows Media Player (desktop)
  • Youtube (web, mobile)
  • iHeartRadio (mobile, web)
  • iLike (mobile, web)
  • mySpace (web)
  • Muspy (web)
  • 8tracks (web)
  • AllMusic (web)
  • Playlistify (web)
  • Shazam (mobile)
  • Soundhound (mobile)
  • BingMusic (mobile)

Then there is of course, the more traditional avenues: FM radio, Satelite radio, Television, Concerts, and Coffee Shops.

It’s crazy how often and in how many different ways we have access to music! In another article, I’ll attempt to summarize everything that these tools are trying to accomplish, and every functionality one could possibly want related to music.

I used to use symbolic links within Mac OS X Snow Leopard to point a few of the folders in my home directory to an external hard disk that I share with my PC (Music, Documents, Movies). Upon updating to OS X Lion, the Symbolic Links no longer work – they now show up as an alias (or as a PC style shortcut). This is frustrating because I can no longer select the “folders” when trying to save a file. I now have to go to my external disk and find the folder where I want to save my data/documents.

Has anyone else experienced this or found a work around?

For the past year or so, I’ve been doing work on an Asus 1000HE EeePC. Well, its no longer “working” for me. Don’t get me wrong… it’s a great little netbook.. probably one of the best made still to this day. It’s got excellent battery life, pretty quick, lightweight, and very small. But as a computer programmer and web developer, I just need something (literally) bigger.

But not too big. My main concern is ultraportability. I’m not looking for a desktop replacement. Especially since you can make a pretty killer desktop nowadays for under a grand (see this article). I’m sure there will be more articles to come on that project once its completed ;.)

I just want a laptop I can quickly throw in my bag and take to the coffee shop, and yet which has a big enough screen to actually get some business done on it. So I started looking at the (13.3″ Macbook Air). With it’s dimensions and weight, it’s a great balance between size and portability. But at ~$1300, it decreases the thickness of my wallet a little much for my liking. I also don’t need the frills and thrills of the Mac OS so much. Most of my business is done best in Windows. So my search for a comparable PC began.

I was sort of surprised to see that in terms of hardware layout and “slickness” (pure coolness factor), there weren’t many companies trying to compete. Apple certainly has the edge in terms of marketing. It took me a couple months, but I think I finally found a great alternative to the Macbook Air. I’ll just have to boost my image elsewhere.

So without further ado… the best “PC Air” that I found is the Toshiba Portege R835-P56X.


Let’s take a look at the specs compared to the Macbook Air… keying in on the most important features.

Portability / Size

Mac Toshiba
Display 13.3″, 1440×900 13.3″, 1366×768
Battery life 7 hours 8 hours (6 cell li-ion)
Weight 2.9 lbs 3.2 lbs
Thickness 0.68″ 1.05″

They have the same screen size, but Mac’s native resolution is higher… so you get a bit more screen space (at the cost of smaller text). The Toshiba squeezes out a little more life, and also has a removable battery for easy replacement in the future. The Mac is 0.3 pounds lighter, and 1/3 of an inch thinner.

Now lets take a look at the power aspect. Time is money. The faster, the better.

Power

Mac Toshiba
Processor 1.86ghz Core 2 Duo 2.3ghz Core i5
Memory 2gb 1066mhz ddr3 sdram 4gb 1333mhz ddr3 sdram
Hard drive 128gb ssd 640gb sata

Toshiba is quite a bit faster (Mac has a 2.13ghz option at the cost of $300 more, but even then, it’s still slower). Toshiba also states speeds of 2.9 GHz with it’s “Turbo Boost Technology” (whatever that is). Toshiba’s memory is faster by 125%, comes with twice as much, and is expandable to 8gb (compared to only 4gb max in the Mac). Toshiba’s hard drive is larger, while Mac’s is faster. However, some people have replaced Toshiba’s internal hard drive with a solid state drive. With several reports of power-on-to-fully-loaded-OS times of 20 to 25 seconds, this seems like a great option for this laptop (unless you’d rather have the extra space). Here’s a comparable SSD to the drive in the Macbook Air. You could even sell the Toshiba’s internal 640gb hard drive on ebay for $50 to $80, and end up making a great upgrade for ~$200.

Let’s try to compare apples to apples as much as possible (after all, we are looking for “an alternative to the Macbook Air”). If you were to upgrade each Machine to get them as close as possible to each other, here’s what you’d end up with:

Price

Mac Toshiba
Starting Price $1300 $800
Hard Drive Upgrade n/a $200
Memory Upgrade $100 n/a
Processor Upgrade $300 n/a
Total (incl. est. tax) $1840 $1083

So what do you get with the Mac for the extra $750? Not much: a higher res display, a slighty lighter / thinner Machine, Bluetooth preinstalled, and some cool commercials. But you also give up some battery life, a good deal of processing speed, an extra usb port, and an optical drive.

In conclusion… I set out to find a good alternative to a Macbook Air. What I found was something better, for a much lower price. I’ll use the extra money to buy some accessories, and still have enough leftover to buy an iPad if I want. Let me know what you think.

Highly Rated Accessories