I have recently ventured into syncing my iPhone to multiple computers. I use my home computer to sync pictures, music, videos and contacts to my iPhone; while I use my office computer to sync calendar information. I had originally planned on using my office computer to sync all of my contacts to my iPhone, but then I realized that I typically use my phone for personal use and don’t use it for business that often. Besides, it’s much easier to find contacts in a list of 150 rather than a list of 400.
Anyways, after successfully syncing to my home computer multiple times, I finally decided to bring a cable into my office and sync the iPhone to my office computer as well. Upon plugging it in, I was prompted with this message:
The information on the iPhone is synced with another user account. Do you want to sync this iPhone with the information from this user account instead?
“Merge Info” merges the information on this iPhone with the information from this user account.
“Replace Info” replaces the information on this iPhone with the information from this user account.
Its nice that Apple gives you the option of how you want to handle data from each computer – Either Merge Info or Replace Info. Plus its nice that it lets you pick and choose which information you want to sync from each computer, and the location that you want to sync from (for pictures, music and videos).
Many people have been having problems syncing photos from Windows Vista to the iPhone, as can be seen in these threads on the Apple Support Forums; “What is the official way to sincronize photos between iPhone and Vista?“, “Photos won’t sync to iPhone“, “Anyone else having problem with RAID and iTunes syncing photos in Vista?”
I too was having the same problems syncing photos, until I came up with the following solution. By default, Windows Vista uses an NTFS file system, and for some reason, this causes problems when syncing photos to the iPhone. In order to sidestep this problem, you’ll
need a USB flash drive, or an external hard drive that is formatted using the FAT32 file system.
Step by step example (We’ll use C:\Documents\Pictures as our default photo directory, swap this out with your actual photo directory. We’ll use F:\ as our FAT32 formatted drive.):
- Copy all pictures from your current NTFS formatted drive C:\Documents\Pictures to F:\Pictures (or to a directory of your choice)
- Open iTunes and select the new folder that you want to use to sync photos to your iPhone – F:\Pictures
- Sync your iPhone and everything should work smoothly.
Prior to moving all of my files to the FAT32 formatted drive, I was only able to sync 45 out of 102 pictures, now all 102 pictures sync to the iPhone with no problem.
Google just began to roll out IMAP support for Gmail. One of the most requested Gmail features was the addition of IMAP support. POP is nice, but IMAP is a much better option. Among the advantages, you’re always connected to the server, more clients can connect to the same account, you can obtain the text from a message without the attachments and the state information is synchronized (you can add labels from the client, read or delete a message and Gmail will synchronize).
Gmail added IMAP support, but you’ll have to enable it by going to Settings > Forwarding and POP/IMAP. Because the new feature is slowly rolled-out, you may not see it, but rest assured it will be available in the next days. Gmail’s help provides more information about configuring your client, whether it’s Microsoft Outlook, Thunderbird, Blackberry, iPhone, Windows Mobile or Symbian device.
If you’re settings page looks like this, you have IMAP available now:
If you’re setting page still looks like this one, then you’ll have to wait a day or two:
I just set this up for one of my Gmail accounts and it works flawlessly. Since I’m all about the iPhone now, here are directions on how to setup the iPhone for use with Gmail. https://mail.google.com/support/bin/answer.py?answer=77702
As you may or may not have read in this blog, I recently gave in and bought an iPhone. So far, I love everything about it… I can check my email (from multiple accounts) anywhere I go, web access whenever I need it and the maps feature has already proven to be helpful. The one problem that I’m having is that after listening to a song, if I go into SMS or Mail, the Play icon remains in the upper bar next to the batter icon, even when no song or video is playing.
iPhone Play Icon – Update
I found an update that seems to work on my phone. When you’re done listening to music, press the pause button and give the iPhone time to remove the Play icon from the upper menu bar. Then back out of iPod to the previous screen prior to pressing the home button. This seems to remove the play icon from the menu bar.
You can view a thread in the Apple support forums here: http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=5556837
So I just tried creating some of my own ringtones by trimming songs down to be less than 30 seconds. Next, I exported them as MP3 files and then followed that up by importing them into my iTunes library.
iTunes then gives you the option to create AAC files – do this by right click on the file from the iTunes library and select “Convert Selection to AAC”. Once you have an AAC file, the tricky part is trying to figure out how to get it into the Ringtones folder. I’ve tried copying the files into /iTunes/iTunes Music/Ringtones/ with no luck so far.
If you have any suggestions, please let us know.
I just got an iPhone and I’ve been trying to add photos to it with no luck. Actually, I’ve had some luck, I’ve been able to get almost half of the pictures that I want onto my iPhone, but for some reason, a little over half of them do not want to be transferred. I’m trying to add about 80 photos, and it’ll add about 10-15 before it gives me the following error:
Some of your photos, including the photo “photo_name.jpg”, were not copied to the iPhone “YourName iPhone” because they cannot be displayed on your iPhone.
Has anyone ever seen this error, and do you know a way around it? About half of the few photos that it does put onto the iPhone come out distorted and or chopped. Am I doing something wrong? Please help! UPDATE :: View the official solution here.
So now, I think I’ve tried everything. I found a picture that wouldn’t copy and I did all of the following:
- Scaled the picture down to the following sizes (no luck with any)
- Tried exporting the picture from Photoshop in different JPG formats with different compression options.
- I have verified that the photo is RGB at 72dpi (this is what all of my photos that worked are)
- I have tried converting the photo to other formats (no luck with these options)
I invested in Apple (AAPL) awhile back when they originally announced the iPhone. I was lucky enough to purchase some shares at about $90 each. Today, apple was up big, pushing the $170 mark for a majority of the day, then out of nowhere, around 11:30am PST (2:30pm EST) Apple (AAPL) plunged by nearly $10/share.
I’m wondering if there is some insider information that has yet to be released to the public, I’ve never seen such a sharp drop, especially in a stock that has been so hot over the past few months.
On a brighter note, Goldman Sachs has upgraded the stock rating and has increased the price target to $190/share. I wouldn’t be surprised to see Apple (AAPL) surpass the $200 mark by the end of the year. I’m sure they’ve got some new products in the works that they release prior to the holiday season.
As we all know, Google is the biggest and best search engine out there. Google is constantly bettering itself and making its tools more useful, that’s why everyone uses it. So it’s really no surprise that my traffic dropped tremendously when Google blacklisted this site by adding the “This site may harm your computer” disclaimer to all of my search results.
After months of receiving over 1,000 unique visitors per day, my traffic fell to roughly 25% of what it had typically been, as the chart below indicates.
The sad reality of this situation is that Google is the only reason that I get any traffic on my site. That became painfully obvious immediately. My advertising income had the same result over these 5 days, it fell to about one quarter of what it had typically been.
The funny thing about the above graph is that September 17th was the last day my site was blacklisted, however, my traffic didn’t immediately jump back up to where it had been. It took the remainder of the month for my web traffic to return to the point that it had been at previously. This makes me wonder if the StopBadware.org blacklist is per site or per page. If pages are removed from the blacklist individually, this would explain why traffic went back up slowly, but if the site was removed from the blacklist as a whole, I would expect to see traffic immediately return almost immediately, since google does not remove your site from its index when you are blacklisted.
After scouring my site, I was unable to find any links to “badware” as claimed by both Google and StopBadware.org. I am led to believe that they are either finding false positives, or that one of my third party advertisers allowed an ad that linked directly to a site that was distributing some form of badware. It’d be nice if Google would implement some sort of notification system (as mentioned here: This site may harm your computer: Get Your Site Removed from the Blacklist),
that way personal websites, small business websites, bloggers and most people who have websites that don’t wish to “harm peoples computers” at least have a chance to keep their sites traffic up. Getting blacklisted dropped my traffic by nearly 75%. Either way, I’m still not certain that the system is 100% accurate, and I found another post where another user had the same problem I had. This guy seems to think that his site was mistakenly blacklisted as well: This site may harm your computer (False Positives?)
Does anyone else have any input or experience with this?
If your site has been blacklisted by Google, there are a couple steps that you might want to take in order to get your site off of the StopBadware.org blacklist as soon as possible. Here’s what I did. First, begin by searching for your site here: http://www.stopbadware.org/home/reportsearch If your site comes up, you’re obviously blacklisted, so at this time, you should file a Request for Review.
Only file this request for review if you are certain that you have no Badware or links to Badware on your site, at which time your site will be reviewed and either approved (removed from the blacklist) or denied.
The current problem with the StopBadware.org list is that there is no notification system in place. Prior to blacklisting a site, the site owner should be notified (through the registrar record or through some other means) that the site is in danger of being blacklisted on Google. My site is small, but it still has 1000’s of pages & comments, so it’d be impossible for me to look through the entire site to find the problem. Prior to being blacklisted on Google, they should send you a warning that your site will be blacklisted in 3 days if the links on the following page(s) are not removed immediately. That way, users with personal sites who have no intention to harm other computers through distributing Badware don’t lose a vast majority of their traffic through being blacklisted.
In addition to the above, I also filled out a contact form inside the Google Webmaster Tools section. I never got a response, but my site was removed from the blacklist approximately 4 days after I submitted both requests.